Melbourne Candid Series #426 Behind the counter

 

I can see the waitress very busy

Collins Arcade

Every time I walk passing this store, there is something interesting to see

Hopetoun Tea Room

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When the Hopetoun Tea Rooms opens in its new home on the corner of Bourke and McKillop Streets later this year, it will continue a 128-year legacy.

 

After more than a century in the Block Arcade – where generations of Melburnians have queued for a pot of tea, a slice of cake and a piece of history – the institution announced in 2020 that it would be moving to a new CBD site after a change of ownership.

 

The local treasure will reopen this summer in the grand 163-year-old Bourke Street building that was formerly home to Kozminsky jewellery, under the stewardship of new owner Vikram Singh. But before then, Hopetoun’s sought-after cakes, pastries and house-blended teas are available at its new shop.

 

Hopetoun Bakeshop – located at the new site – is a “modern take on a traditional English bakery”, says Singh, with heritage-green walls, marble counters and gold trimmings, as well as shelves lined with loose-leaf teas, house-made jams and relishes, and a collection of teaware.

 

A display case is crammed with spongy gateaux, delicate biscuits, seasonal fruit tarts and savoury sandwiches, pies and pasties geared towards the grab-and-go crowd. But those dining in can watch the pastry chefs at work in their new kitchen, which will also function as the “engine room” for the tea rooms.

 

“We were in a very small space in the Block Arcade,” says Singh, who was a Hopetoun customer before saving the stalwart from closure when it went into administration in 2020.

“People knew the brand because it had been running in the same space for such a long time. But it was constrained, especially the kitchen,” says Singh. “It was set up to prepare scones and sandwiches, but people’s eating habits have changed – they want more variety, and, at the same time, really good quality … the art of pastry has evolved so much. We couldn’t have taken the brand to the next level in that place.”

 

When the tea rooms reopen in December, the building will house a ground-floor dining room, afternoon tea service on level one, and on the top floor, a function space for bridal parties, baby showers and so on.

“It was important we remain in a heritage building that has a bit of history,” says Singh. “Melbourne is well-known for its food expertise, so how do we differentiate ourselves? We’re offering people a piece of history.

 

When Singh and the team landed on the former Kozminsky building, they also found a surprise connection to Hopetoun. “Lady Hopetoun [the wife of the Governor of Victoria from 1889 to 1895, and the shop’s namesake] was a customer of Kozminsky jewellers, and we’ve got some photos where she actually modelled in a newspaper wearing Kozminsky jewellery.”

History and heritage are inextricably tied to the Hopetoun brand, and Singh has no intention of changing that. “Our customer base – some of whom have been going to Hopetoun for 60 years – have been telling us beautiful stories of how they went with their grandmother and now they’d like to take their granddaughter. We don’t want to change.”

 

“I come from a tea-loving nation, India,” says Singh. “So the tea part really excited me. I want to promote good-quality tea drinking, which is what’s lacking in Australia. People still see tea as the humble teabag.”

 

A signature of the tea rooms is its traditional afternoon tea service featuring dainty sandwiches, pastries and scones. While that’s on hold until the new space opens, the bake shop is offering a Devonshire tea, including those scones topped with house-made berry jam and Gippsland Jersey clotted cream.

 

The tea rooms will open in late 2023 at 421 Bourke Street, Melbourne.